Weingut Nikolaihof
Mautern, Wachau
2017 Grüner Veltliner ‘Hefeabzug’
The entry-level wine from Nikolaihof, an estate with over 2000 years history! Biodynamically produced, the word ‘Hefeabzug’ means ‘taking away from lees’ indicating its bottled directly after racking from the lees. A floral nose filled with cherry blossom, freshly cut grass, green apple and subtle anise and flint notes. The palate is light-bodied but layered with flavours of fruit and spice - green apples, passionfruit, cinnamon and citrus juice and a lick of spicy minerality. The bottling straight off lees gives the wine a creamy, rounded mouthfeel. Precise, focused and elegant with a modest line of acidity throughout. If this is your first foray into Nikolaihof’s wines, we recommend you start here.
2015 gRüNER vELTLINER ‘iM wEINGEBIRGE’ sMARAGD
From the ‘Im Weingebirge’ vineyard, named in writings in 470AD, making it the oldest named vineyard in all of Europe. ‘Smaragd’ denotes the highest quality level of Austria’s Wachau region. This is one for a special occasion! Mint, ripe melons and a toasted hazelnut on the nose, accompanied by green bean notes. The palate is ethereal and pure, opening up with green apples, barely ripe apricots and a smoked nuttiness. Well-balanced minerality sings throughout and brings it to a long, lasting finish. Nuanced and multi-faceted, we recommend decanting before drinking. Another great cellaring candidate from the Saahs family.
2008 Riesling ‘Vom Stein’ Federspiel
Bottled in 2015. Riesling fruit from a group of vineyards formerly known as ‘Vom Stein’ (from stone), now maintained by Nikolaihof under their trademark. The wine undergoes open vat fermentation followed by aging for a year in old Austrian oak. After fermentation the wine spent the 7 years in a 7000L ancient oak barrel, before bottling in December 2015. Aromas of fresh fruit and citrus zest come through, as well as a smidgen of beeswax, all of which continue through on the palate. The wine is incredibly fresh and robust belying its age, but the years on oak have given it a depth and complexity that could not be replicated by any means other than time. There’s a chalky yeastiness to the mouthfeel reminiscent of Champagne. We recommend decanting to really allow the wine to open up, and this bottle would easily keep for two decades or more.
2014 rIESLING ‘vOM sTEIN’ sMARAGD
Riesling fruit from a group of vineyards formerly known as ‘Vom Stein’ (from stone), now maintained by Nikolaihof under their trademark. The wine undergoes open vat fermentation followed by aging for a year in old Austrian oak. The senses welcome freshly cut straw, pithy stonefruit kernels and lemon scent aromas. The palate brings through more savoury botanical notes including lavendar, mint and other dried herbs. Fresh, pure lime and lemon lift the palate to new heights and lingering freshness. Mineral salts draw the palate out to a long finish.
2013 Riesling ‘Steiner Hund’ Reserve
The fruit comes from vines grown on a shallow layer of humus over gneiss rock – hence the wine’s name, ‘stone dog’. The wine spends two and a half years maturing in large old oak before bottling. It possesses and intense and concentrated aroma with savoury herbs – thyme, coriander, peppery spice, and nuttiness. These complex flavours roll on into the palate and more emerge – oyster shell salinity, wet river stones, as well as white peaches and the tang of lemon acidity. The parent rock really shows in the textured mouthfeel and intense savoury minerality of the wine, and the time in oak has intensified and concentrated those delicious flavours. This is one of the premier wines available from the Nikolaihof range and has entered its peak drinking window. Steiner Hund produces wines of finesse, textured mouthfeel and an intense minerality.
2002 Riesling ‘Steinriesler’
Bottled in 2015. It is no underestimation to describe this wine as truly world class and incredibly unique. This dry Riesling spends 13 years in large old oak barrel, a virtually unheard of practice. Stewed apples, lemon rind, yellow florals and chamomile tea aromas dance on the nose. The palate is elegant, filled with a freshness and lingering tension that belies its age. Dried yellow fruits, more lemon rind and stone fruit characteristics interplay nuanced minerality, with a depth of flavour and concentration that could only come about from time. The mouthfeel is smooth with a dry finish goes on forever. The Wine Advocate describes it as “simply must be experienced to be believed”. Decant now or cellar for a further decade. Either way, savour every mouthful.